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Freitag, 12. Januar 2018

the Golden Chariot - a hotel train to Hampi

            

The South of India is home for about 400 Mill People.  The states Mumbai, Maharashtra, Goa, Andra Pradesh, Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Karnataka belong to it.  The people follow 5 religions, 6 languages are beeing spoken.  The country shows overhelming nature close to fascinating rests of more than thousand year old  culture.
This time I  wanted to see the temples and ruins in Karnataka that have been erected partly before the muslim influence got intensive.
 Reached Bangalore I stayed a night in Taj Westend Hotel not too far from the very modern Center of  the eight  Mill inhabitant City; having now seen the most big cities in India I can say, that Bangalore seems to be the cleanest Indian City I visited ever.. In the Shopping mall You might even discover a H+M shop.

Because of the heighst (1000m above seelevel) the climate at this time shows nice 23 degrees ; the Taj Westend  is a beautiful traditional hotel with perfect comfort situated in a huge garden complex founded in 1830 as a 10 bed guest house; .


 you can already  see the old building; next morning was time enough for a nice SPA; I would have liked to stay some days, but my plans were different.

Day 1 :

In the afternoon we got the introduction for our next Hotel, a train for 7 days;   we were to leave  in the evening. The Golden Chariot is a Hotel Train with 16  coaches  including restaurants and nice cabins with bathroom  for about 40 People. On this trip it runs 7 days from Bangalore via Mysore, Hampi to Goa stopping at some very ancient places from more than thousand years ago and then back to Bangaluru  


The Train is moving in the evening or night and during daytime the tourists do excursions with a bus. Those are the impressive historical places we planned to vistit: Mysore Palace, Kabini wildlife resort, Srirangapatna, Daria Daulat Bagh, Gumbaz, the jain statue Shravanabelagola, Halebidu und Belur, Hampi Temple complex, Pattakadal  and Badami and then  Old Goa. After a nice Indian dinner, a glass of red Indian wine from Maharshtra and with the ruttling noise of the train in the ear I fall asleep.

Day 2 :

Next morning we arrived in Mysore, nice breakfast in the Train and afterwords visited Mysore Palace.





This king has had Mysore Palace  beeing rebuild and renovated in late 1890. Originally it was first build in 14th century. Still the Family of the Wodeyars are living in one part of the building. Though from architectual stand of view it is not so special für that time there are many nice paintings inside showing parades and the official life of that days. And another speciality is, that all faces on the paintings have been made after real photographs.
After that the bus took as to the Nagarhole national Park, Kabini Resort. In former days ist was a private hunting reserve for the Maharaja of Mysore. Wild elephants, tigers, leopards, jaguars and plenty of deer do live here.  Of course they are shy and not easy to be spotted.
We started  on a jeep tour and my hope to see anything dropped down, when I saw several cars together. But the reserve is huge and each jeep went another way. 

    open jeeps

                                                                monkey




we were nearly back, when we met HIM -
like a real king he crossed our way between the cars - I felt happy

When I fall asleep I had the noises of the jungle night  in my ear.

Day 3

Next morning we got up early, because we went on a boat trip on Kabini river. We saw some otters, birds and met a friendly fisherman.


After that we made our way back to Mysore, reached there in the afternoon  to visit the summer palace and mausoleum of Tipu Sultan, 1782;


black marble colums from far away
giant tree
education includes intense advice in own culture
Then drove back to the Golden Chariot for rest overnight.
my bed
bathroom


Dinner
the brave train



badam - badam

Day 4

We would visit the statue of Bhagavan Gometeshwara.
shoes mostly have to be undressed before entering spiritual localisations
This  place is one of the most important
Jain pilgrim Centers. India ist full of storys and myths.  The legend tells us, that 6oo yrs bC the holy Bhadrabahu hungered himself to death to get divine enlightenment to rescue his people that had fleed from drought in Ujjain. In the remembering of that several temples have been built in the Region.  In the 10th centuary a huge statue, 17 meters tall,  was build as a symbol of askesis on the top of a hill. You should get up early (don ´t forget Your water! I would not recommend the tour  in european summer!) to make the way with ~ 620 steps up to the top. The later the morning an always longer  procession of people is on the way.


half the way made

but there are even more steps to be made


on the top - the statue is seated in a small Patio -  first entrance

.. the past, these  reliefs  are ~ 1400 years old  

temple built  into the rocks

Bhagavan Gomateshwara - looking - resting and ...

praying, -   monks and pilgrims


-  is close together

at the moment the statue  is under rennovation - but not at all less empressing

how did they get the stone so smooth?


the view from the top - there are countless other temples in the surrounding


back to the bottom You can get coconut water as refreshment

In the afternoon we visited Halebidu and Belur.
Helebidu was in th 12th century the capital of the Hoysala; as for more  temples and palaces of that time we already know the name of the builder, Vishnuvardana. In later years just the names of the kings stayed public. The temple is famous of its  wealth of sculptural details; its is covered with countless variety of depictions from Hindu mythology. The temple ist guarded by a huge Nandy Bull.



this is Ganesha - my favourite








This is the Nandi; it was the mount for God Shiva. The Story is, that he was a little stupid.   One day Shiva asked him, how the people were doing on earth. Nandy told him ,they were
quarreling and even fighting a lot. So Shiva got angry about and wanted a change. He told Nandi to go down to the people and tell the poeople from now on they should held service two times a day and eat one time  so there would be now time for fighting. Nandi went down to earth and called the people together . But unfortunately he had forgotten what Shiva had said.  So Nandi told the People they should eat 3 times a day and pray one time. That is how it stayed to be.





Some pictures from Indian daily life.













  Day 5
 Staying in Hospet  we visited Hampi. It is situated in a huge field of giant granit blocks.  To day named Hampi - in former days Vijayanagar, was the capital  of the last Hindu Empire bevor the arrival of the muslim emperors. In 1450 this  empire reached from Gulbarga in the North to the bottom of the Indien coast in the South, and from the Malabar coast which is now GOA to Orissa in the East. Travellers of that time described a bloomimg City, looking as big as Rome, fruit trees in the yards  as Mango, bethelnut, Lemon- and orange trees;
the streets were full of people and elephants .
Nowadays the ruins of  temples and and palaces are spreed around in 26 squarekilometers.  To see most places and really feel the athmosphere you would need some more days. Beside the unique buildings you can view pilgrims and sadhus washing there colourfull clothes in the Tungabhadra-river  and with the ringling of the temple bells and the magic of the evening light you might feel how it looked like in ancient days. We started in Hampi Bazaar and visited the Virupaksha temple.

  they put pieces of wood in Little cuts along a line and watered them; th wood swall and jumped of the granit














 




                                                                                                       



 the Virupaksha-Temple



the old bazar 


a long allee of the rests







and the Vittala Swami  Temple




 the musical pillars- there are plenty of groups of them and each has got a different sound 



the past  -

and today



mais is beeing dried

Tungabhadra river shores in the evening


it is said to be holy - like the Ganga



back in the train we had a some interesting lectures and discussion about the situation of the Young

women in India

DAY 6

We were to visit Pattadakal. Virupaksha.

The 8th century monuments show the earliest pieces of Vesara style in  Hindu architecture. You can see here both forms, the Dravidian (right, southern) and the Nagara (North Indian style, above).
Most of the countless temples have been erected between 733 and 746. Costly crowning ceremonies took place here.
Like in modern comics  the Ramayana Epos is beeing told in pictures round the temples.



..like the Holy Family


 For me it was the most beautiful temples during the journey, it touched me really


..she seemed to be sceptical.



even 30 ° C are not warm enough for this little one






In the evening we again enjoyed a very nice dinner, I mostly took the Indian choice.






in the train station


 we left for GOA were we reached before midnight


DAY 7

GOA is Indias smallest state, but the richest. Tourists love to com e here because of the nice beaches and the easy way of life. They sometimes forget to respect the Indian culture.
GOA was Portugese for 450 years till 1961. In 1600 it was a huge cita with about 300.000 inhabitants, rich from trading with horses, silk, spices and jewels. About 1000 ships reached the harbour every year.. Panajis ist the capitol nowadays. Both, Old Goa and Panaji do have nice old town parts worth to see and some nice churches

The holy Church of Franz of Assisi



Christian missionarity

a bird



  the altar




 babtism


For me this was the end of the journey; I left the train in Goa .


 In one week I got much input about the history; I felt always very comfortable and got to know some nice interesting people.